Court Hill to the Wantage monument
We start at the Court Hill Centre, a hostel and café built from reclaimed barns just off the Ridgeway, and join the trail heading east. After the A338 the Ridgeway runs as a broad ride past White House Farm and across Wantage Down, with the view widening northwards over the Vale to Didcot and the Chilterns. We cross the B4494 by the car park and soon reach the stone cross to Lord Wantage, Victoria Cross holder and a founder of the British Red Cross, erected by his widow after his death in 1901.
Grim’s Ditch and Scutchamer Knob
East of the monument the trail follows the crest above the Lockinge estate, with remains of the prehistoric bank and ditch called Grim’s Ditch close by. We pass the heads of the bridleways that drop to Ardington and Ginge and reach the wood around Scutchamer Knob, a large barrow where the Anglo-Saxon shire court once met. The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle records a Danish army marching here in 1006.
Bury Down and the A34
The next section is one of the broadest parts of the whole Ridgeway, with panoramic views on clear days and the Harwell campus below. At Bury Down the lane from West Ilsley crosses the trail by a car park. Here we are among the racehorse gallops of Cow and Bury Downs. The traffic noise builds as we pass Gore Hill, and we pass under the A34 in an underpass.
Compton Downs and the old railway
Beyond the A34 the Ridgeway swings south-east across Several Down and the Compton Downs. It crosses the line of the long-closed Didcot, Newbury and Southampton railway, and the sense of space is at its greatest here. There are no villages on the ridge. Compton lies in the valley to the south, and East Ilsley is a short way off the route to the west of the A34.
Down to the Thames
Beyond Roden Downs the trail runs on for miles across the open plateau and passes Warren Farm. Only then does it begin its long descent, leaving the chalk plateau for the valley of the Thames. The trail becomes a lane and brings us down to Streatley. We cross the river on the bridge by the weir and lock, a lovely moment after so long on the dry downs, and walk up through Goring to the station. The Ridgeway continues north-east into the Chilterns.
What to look out for
This whole stretch is known for farmland birds. Corn buntings, skylarks and yellowhammers are the characteristic sounds from spring to late summer. In winter, Naturetrek groups have found big flocks of fieldfares and redwings, grey partridges, stonechats and many red kites around Bury and Compton Downs, with the chance of a hen harrier or merlin. Brown hares and roe deer are frequent. Chalk flowers brighten the verges in June and July. At Streatley and Goring, look for red kites over the river and for grey wagtails and herons by the weir.
Before you go
This is a full day, so start early and check sunset. Carry at least two litres of water per person in summer, plus food: there is nothing on the route between Court Hill and Streatley. The downs are exposed, with no shade in summer and little shelter from wind and rain. Take OS Explorer 170 and OS Explorer 158 (or a National Trail map covering both). Check train times from Goring & Streatley before you set out, and the National Trail website for any temporary closures or vehicle restrictions.
Make it longer or shorter
To split it in two, finish the first day at Bury Down (about 6½ miles) and arrange a taxi, then walk from Bury Down to Goring on another day (about 9 miles). To make it longer, start in Wantage Market Place and walk up via Letcombe Regis and Segsbury Camp, adding about 3 miles.
