Up to the Ridgeway
West Ilsley sits in a fold of the downs, with a cricket green and a long connection with racehorse training. Leaving the Harrow, we find the broad gravel bridleway signed a few metres to the right and follow it north. It climbs steadily for about 1½ miles, and we ignore all the tracks off to the right. On the left is farmland of the Hendred estate; on the right are the gallops of Cow Down. The National Trail mentions skylarks and, at times, the bubbling call of curlews on this climb. At the top a wide view opens north over the Vale of White Horse as we join the Ridgeway at an angle.
Scutchamer Knob
We turn left for about 400 metres, past the car park at the top of the lane from East Hendred, to a small hilltop wood. Through a gate on the left is Scutchamer Knob, a large round barrow among the trees. It has been dated to the early Iron Age, though some older guides call it Bronze Age. Its old name, Cwichelmeshlaew, means Cwichelm’s barrow, after a 7th-century king of Wessex. In Anglo-Saxon times the shire court met here. The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle for 1006 records that a Danish army marched to Cuckhamsley Hill in defiance of a saying that if they reached it they would never get back to the sea. Victorian diggers badly damaged the mound and found very little.
East along the Ridgeway
We retrace our steps and follow the Ridgeway east. This is one of its broadest stretches, and the views are superb on a clear day: the Chilterns beyond the Thames valley ahead, the Cotswolds far to the north-west, and the Harwell science campus below. We pass the car park on Bury Down, where the lane from West Ilsley crosses the trail. The roar of the A34 grows as we go on towards Gore Hill.
Down to West Ilsley
About 800 metres beyond Bury Down a restricted byway forks right, off the Ridgeway, at the top of Gore Hill. It is grassy at first, then becomes clearer as it drops, with racehorse gallops appearing on the right. The National Trail notes that the first or second track on the right after Bury Down also lead to the east end of the village and save some road walking. At the road we turn right and walk back through West Ilsley to the Harrow.
What to look out for
The downs around Bury Down and Cow Down are a stronghold for farmland birds. On winter walks here, Naturetrek groups have recorded big flocks of fieldfares and redwings in the hawthorns, corn buntings and yellowhammers in large numbers, coveys of grey partridge, stonechats on the gallop posts and ten or more red kites at once. Now and then a merlin, sparrowhawk or hen harrier passes through. Roe deer shelter in the copses. In spring and summer skylarks and corn buntings sing all along the Ridgeway, and chalk flowers colour the verges in June and July.
Before you go
Take OS Explorer 170 (east sheet). The Ridgeway here is fully exposed. Gore Hill was notorious for snowbound coaches in the days of horse traffic, so dress for the wind in winter and carry water and sun protection in summer. Racehorses use the gallops beside the route, mostly in the mornings: keep to the paths and keep dogs close.
Make it longer or shorter
For a short walk, park at Scutchamer Knob and stroll east along the Ridgeway to Bury Down and back (about 3 miles, almost level). To extend the loop, follow the Ridgeway west from Scutchamer Knob to the Lord Wantage monument and back (about 4½ miles more), or continue east under the A34 towards Compton Downs.
